Nepal - Kathmandu and the Annapurna Sanctuary Trek

This is a pictorial story of a road trip to Nepal in 1973. For anyone who has been to Nepal in the 21st century, these images show a marked contrast to present day Nepal

Having crossed the middle east and India we end up in Nepal and make our first trek in the Himalayas. At that time, the trek to the Annapurna Sanctuary involved carrying at least five days worth of supplies and sleeping where ever one could. We did not carry a tent, but instead slept in caves and rock enclosures.

We read Chris Bonington's Annapurna South Face recounting his famous climb of 1970 whilst following his approach march up the Modi Kola gorge.

Click on an image to enlarge

Nepal 1973 - From the border crossing in Nautanwa the Annapurna range is still 200 km away but is SO big! Note there is very little trafic on the road.
Nepal 1973 - From the border crossing in Nautanwa the Annapurna range is still 200 km away but is SO big! Note there is very little trafic on the road.
Nepal 1973 - After driving throught the foothills towards Pokhara the Annapurna Himal shines in the sunset.
Nepal 1973 - After driving throught the foothills towards Pokhara the Annapurna Himal shines in the sunset.
Nepal 1973 - The camp near the river north of Pokhara just past the Shining hospital and before the Tibetan Refugee camp.
Nepal 1973 - The camp near the river north of Pokhara just past the Shining hospital and before the Tibetan Refugee camp.
Nepal 1973 - Catching up with the washing. Chris in the foreground and Machaputre behind.
Nepal 1973 - Catching up with the washing. Chris in the foreground and Machaputre behind.
Nepal 1973 - At this time the Tibetan refugees kept themselves together by selling their jewelry and artifacts
Nepal 1973 - At this time the Tibetan refugees kept themselves together by selling their jewelry and artifacts
Nepal 1973 - Mules are a major form of transport on this major trail.
Nepal 1973 - Mules are a major form of transport on this major trail.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary and Kathmandu
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary and Kathmandu
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary and Kathmandu. Much treasured water buffalo
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary and Kathmandu. Much treasured water buffalo
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary Mules are a major form of transport on this major trail. Here at Suiket.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary Mules are a major form of transport on this major trail. Here at Suiket.
Nepal 1973 - A tibetan woman in the refugee camp in Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - A tibetan woman in the refugee camp in Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Nigel, Sam, Julie, Em, Alan, Chris, Ian and Judy before departing to Kathmandu to get trekking permits.
Nepal 1973 - Nigel, Sam, Julie, Em, Alan, Chris, Ian and Judy before departing to Kathmandu to get trekking permits.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary and Kathmandu. The Combi needed to be winched up from the river bank.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary and Kathmandu. The Combi needed to be winched up from the river bank.
Nepal 1973 - Boudhanath Stupa outside Kathmandu surrounded by fields. This is now surrounded by buildings which are contiuous along the road into the city (2014)
Nepal 1973 - Boudhanath Stupa outside Kathmandu surrounded by fields. This is now surrounded by buildings which are contiuous along the road into the city (2014)
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary and Kathmandu. A coutry cottage outside Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary and Kathmandu. A coutry cottage outside Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Our lodge in Suiket (centre). There is now a road through this once pristine valley (2014)
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Our lodge in Suiket (centre). There is now a road through this once pristine valley (2014)
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The trek begins. It is good to see that the tree has been replaced on the Dharamsala (resting place)
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The trek begins. It is good to see that the tree has been replaced on the Dharamsala (resting place)
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna. Lowland houses of adobe and thatch.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna. Lowland houses of adobe and thatch.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Suiket
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Suiket
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Our lodge in Dampus. Rupees 4:50 for a meal and a space around the family fire.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Our lodge in Dampus. Rupees 4:50 for a meal and a space around the family fire.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna. An overnight stay here cost four and a half rupees with a space on the floor to sleep in free.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna. An overnight stay here cost four and a half rupees with a space on the floor to sleep in free.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Our hosts in Dampus. Ex British army.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Our hosts in Dampus. Ex British army.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Modi South Peak.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Modi South Peak.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna. Modern suspension bridges had not yet arrived everywhere. Crossing the Modi Kola.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna. Modern suspension bridges had not yet arrived everywhere. Crossing the Modi Kola.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna. Gandrug, a Gurka stronghold.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna. Gandrug, a Gurka stronghold.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Ian and Judy reading Chris Bonnington's
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Ian and Judy reading Chris Bonnington's "Annapurna South Face". We followed his approach march.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. As you near the entrance to the Annapurna Sanctury, Machaputre's nickname of Fishtail is explained.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. As you near the entrance to the Annapurna Sanctury, Machaputre's nickname of Fishtail is explained.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Many of the Nepalese here are ex British Army Gurkas.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Many of the Nepalese here are ex British Army Gurkas.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Gandrug.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Gandrug.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Father and son in Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Father and son in Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Fishtail from Chomrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Fishtail from Chomrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Carrying a basket accross the forehead is an essential skill in these parts. Chomrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Carrying a basket accross the forehead is an essential skill in these parts. Chomrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Weaver in Chomrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Weaver in Chomrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Chomrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Chomrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The village of Chomrung, our last place to stay before entering the Modi Kola gorge. Sleep rough after this. At higher altitude the buildings are of Stone and Slate to guard against the colder weather.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The village of Chomrung, our last place to stay before entering the Modi Kola gorge. Sleep rough after this. At higher altitude the buildings are of Stone and Slate to guard against the colder weather.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Chomrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Chomrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The hut at Kuldi Garr at 7,500 feet where we spend this night.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The hut at Kuldi Garr at 7,500 feet where we spend this night.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Chapatis for breakfast by the river.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Chapatis for breakfast by the river.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Chapatis for breakfast by the river.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Chapatis for breakfast by the river.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The weeping wall in the Modi Kola gorge.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The weeping wall in the Modi Kola gorge.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The Modi Kola gorge and the Weeping Wall.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The Modi Kola gorge and the Weeping Wall.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Inside Hinko Cave at 10,000 feet (3050m). Mice run over our heads in the night.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Inside Hinko Cave at 10,000 feet (3050m). Mice run over our heads in the night.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The modi Kola gorge ... such a beautiful place.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The modi Kola gorge ... such a beautiful place.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Modi Kola gorge - a classic glacial valley.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Modi Kola gorge - a classic glacial valley.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The entrance to the sanctury itself.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The entrance to the sanctury itself.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. we get our first peek of the far side of the circle of moutains that makes up the sanctury.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. we get our first peek of the far side of the circle of moutains that makes up the sanctury.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Tent peak at the gates of the sanctuary.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Tent peak at the gates of the sanctuary.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Tent peak at the gates of the sanctuary.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Tent peak at the gates of the sanctuary.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary and Kathmandu
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary and Kathmandu
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The gates to the sanctuary.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The gates to the sanctuary.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The walled space at the entrance at 12,000 feet. Our plastic water bottle and the waterfall opposite froze solid in the night.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The walled space at the entrance at 12,000 feet. Our plastic water bottle and the waterfall opposite froze solid in the night.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The frozen waterfall.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The frozen waterfall.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Chris feeling very chuffed to have made it this far.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Chris feeling very chuffed to have made it this far.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Alan and his Kukerie.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Alan and his Kukerie.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Once inside one is surrounded by peaks of stunning beauty.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Once inside one is surrounded by peaks of stunning beauty.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Once inside one is surrounded by peaks of stunning beauty.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Once inside one is surrounded by peaks of stunning beauty.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Ian in front of the South face of Annapurna just down from Bonnington's base camp. This late in the season there is not much snow on the glacier. We are lucky for the second half of December.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Ian in front of the South face of Annapurna just down from Bonnington's base camp. This late in the season there is not much snow on the glacier. We are lucky for the second half of December.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary and Kathmandu
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary and Kathmandu
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Chris and Alan in front of the South Face. This was our next years Christmas card!
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Chris and Alan in front of the South Face. This was our next years Christmas card!
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Return down the Modi Kola Gorge
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Return down the Modi Kola Gorge
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Hinko cave.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Hinko cave.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Hinko cave.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Hinko cave.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Down through the bamboo.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Down through the bamboo.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Rhodedendran forest.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Rhodedendran forest.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The weeping wall.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The weeping wall.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Fishtale in the sunset over Kuldi Garr hut on Christmas eve.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Fishtale in the sunset over Kuldi Garr hut on Christmas eve.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Fishtail from Kuldi Garr hut.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Fishtail from Kuldi Garr hut.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Christmas breakfast!
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Christmas breakfast!
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Christmas breakfast!
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Christmas breakfast!
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Back at Kimlung Kola watching the weaving.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Back at Kimlung Kola watching the weaving.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. A resting place on the way down.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. A resting place on the way down.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The entrance to the Modi Kola gorge from Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The entrance to the Modi Kola gorge from Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. A room in the loft at Kimlung Kola
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. A room in the loft at Kimlung Kola
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Gandrung and starting work young.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Gandrung and starting work young.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The terraces around Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The terraces around Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary and Kathmandu
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary and Kathmandu
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Young women carry the stone. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Young women carry the stone. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Young women carry the stone. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Young women carry the stone. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Young women carry the stone. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Young women carry the stone. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary and Kathmandu
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary and Kathmandu
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Young women carry the stone. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Young women carry the stone. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Young women carry the stone. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Young women carry the stone. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Young women carry the stone. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Young women carry the stone. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - The boys go to school ... Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - The boys go to school ... Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Young women carry the stone. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Young women carry the stone. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The man who sold me a kukerie in Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The man who sold me a kukerie in Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Gandrung.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Birithanti.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Birithanti.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Birithanti.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Birithanti.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Birithanti.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Birithanti.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Birithanti.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Birithanti.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The main street in Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The main street in Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The main street in Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The main street in Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The main street in Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The main street in Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The main street in Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The main street in Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The main street in Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The main street in Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The main street in Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The main street in Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The main street in Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The main street in Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The main street in Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The main street in Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The main street in Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary. The main street in Pokhara.
Nepal 1973 - The main square in Patan sister city to Kathmandu.
Nepal 1973 - The main square in Patan sister city to Kathmandu.
Nepal 1973 - The main square in Patan sister city to Kathmandu.
Nepal 1973 - The main square in Patan sister city to Kathmandu.
Nepal 1973 - Boudhanath Stube in the Kathmandu valley. Notice the long built over fields in the background.
Nepal 1973 - Boudhanath Stube in the Kathmandu valley. Notice the long built over fields in the background.
Nepal 1973 - Boudhanath Stube in the Kathmandu valley.
Nepal 1973 - Boudhanath Stube in the Kathmandu valley.
Nepal 1973 - Swayambunath in Kathmandu.
Nepal 1973 - Swayambunath in Kathmandu.
Nepal 1973 - The river seems very clean compared to today (2014)
Nepal 1973 - The river seems very clean compared to today (2014)
Nepal 1973 - Durbar Square Kathmandu.
Nepal 1973 - Durbar Square Kathmandu.
Nepal 1973 - Durbar Square Kathmandu.
Nepal 1973 - Durbar Square Kathmandu.
Nepal 1973 - Kathmandu. Asan Tole, the heart of the old market.
Nepal 1973 - Kathmandu. Asan Tole, the heart of the old market.
Nepal 1973 - Durbar Square Kathmandu.
Nepal 1973 - Durbar Square Kathmandu.
Nepal 1973 - Freak Street Kathmandu. Most accomodation for travellers was in this area. Thamil had not yet been developed.
Nepal 1973 - Freak Street Kathmandu. Most accomodation for travellers was in this area. Thamil had not yet been developed.
Nepal 1973 - Freak Street Kathmandu. Most accomodation for travellers was in this area. Thamil had not yet been developed.
Nepal 1973 - Freak Street Kathmandu. Most accomodation for travellers was in this area. Thamil had not yet been developed.
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary and Kathmandu
Nepal 1973 - Trek to Annapurna sanctuary and Kathmandu